Odessa

For the first time on this trip, I rolled into town with a smile on my face. And indeed so far not only has that smile sustained, but my sould feels lighter and cleaner. I’m not just talking about the cleaner air compared to Moscow and St. Petersburg, although there is a noticeable difference here due to many less cars and a sea to bring us fresh air. I am talking about being in a town that still partially has its signature local original cultural mark, and has not been fully pervertized, or westerted (westernized/perverted :), yet..

This used to be the town that was pride of the Ukraine. Bright, cultural town on the Black sea, lots of Jews, huge marine academy that was known for high black enrollment, fantastic agriculture that could not be rivaled in the U.S.S.R., and many more things I’m sure I don’t know about the place.
While it still retains some of those features, you can see that since the fall of the U.S.S.R., and the changeover of a few corrupt presidents, some things like buildings are falling apart. Cars dominate the streets much more than public transport. The coastline is being privatized quickly and developed into multi-multi-million dollar homes, hotels, and nightclubs, where once were public beaches, ports for public transport through speedy little boat busses, and sanitoriums – which are like resorts but with doctors on hand for those that have special needs while they rest.
We are actually staying in one of these last such places. It is pretty run down, with very little money for rebuilding or upkeep, and 2nd world room conditions, but they somehow stay alive, even I’m sure despite the many attempts to buy out the land from private developers for hundreds of millions of dollars.
Somehow it is quite surprising, considering that the place is pretty much falling apart. Our water here from the tap is definitely not drinkable, if it even flows at all. Everything squeaks as if there are little baby cats wedged between door hinges, ..and you can figure out what happens when you try to open or close one. And yet, people flock here from all over to rest, heal, and eat bland and healthy food. ..But I can’t complain ;)

But here end my more bitter words on this place (mostly, and for your sake, hopefully :), as my next post about Odessa should be brighter, as it will be about the people and not the polluted, run down, capitalistic surroundings.